Brake pads on motorcycle should be replaced in average every 5000-8000 km. The more quality pads you buy for your bike, the longer they will serve and the braking effect would be better if you installed original brake pads. Beware of counterfeits!
If there is a need in replacement of old brake pads on your bike, buy only new ones. Don't build up or attach new brake pads to old ones. Even if new pads don't include ceramic or metal bits, they'll still be more reliable, than independently modified.
Modified (attached or built up) brake linings are quite stable and reliable at low speed. But at high speed often happened separations of fused layer. Well, it is obvious, how dangerous such separation can be for biker.
Just imagine the situation, when you accelerated to 140 km/h or more and you suddenly have to brake hard. But there is no brake and your built up pads just "flew off"...
To replace brake pads on motorcycle you need 2 sets for front and 1 set for rear brakes. There are 2 pads in 1 set. In other words, you need 4 pads for front brake circuit and 2 pads for rare brake system.
One of the best motorcycle brake pads manufacturers are considered SBS, EBC, DP, Versah, Ferodo…or original from Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki.
When you buy brake pads, pay attention to the type of your moto. Original pads or analogues produced by manufacturers mentioned above fit perfectly for road motorcycle. For sportbikes are suitable pads containing ceramic or metal bits or original brake pads.
How to replace brake pads.
Replacing brake pads, don't inhale the dust from them!
Wait until brake system cools down. Somteimes, after a sport ride in drive/brake mode, the pads can heat pretty much.
Brake system of almost any motorcycle is identical. So, the structure of rear brake is similar to front, but with some differences (for example, the number of brake pistons).
In case, if there are dust caps - unscrew them. Then remove the screw, which fastens brake pads. Often, a hex key is required for undoing of a retain screw.
If there is a compression clamp in brake system construction remove it. But remember its position for further assembling.
Then hook the old brake pad with a screwdriver and draw it forth. Remove another pad in the same way. Then, cafefully drive out the brake pistons with flat tip screwdriver. Move them aside a bit more, than on a half (depends on height of new brake pads and brake disk width).
Don't press brake arms during brake lining replacement, because brake cylinders can easily slip out chases, air will get into brake system. In this case, the air can fully be removed only by bleeding the brake system.
After that install new brake pads. The installation is similar to disassembling process. The pads are installed behind the brake disk and compression clamp - on top, then screw in the fixing screw. And don't forget to screw in a dust cap in te end.
The process is similar to pads replacement on the front brake system. The only difference is that access to brake circuit through rear wheel is a bit more complicated. More often, there is no need in rear wheel removal, just screw out the retain screw, then you'll be able to shift the brake system. The process of disassembling and replacement of brake pads in rear braking circuit is similar to the one in front braking circuit.
To get the brakes into working trim after replacement, press the brake lever few times until you feel tension.
At first, until your new brake pads adapt, there might be some noise or swish. Low grade brake pads will make a whistling noise. Also, at first, new brake pads might not have the necessary effect, so, you shouldn't ride fast first few miles. In any case, you'll have to get used to the work of new brake pads, because their performance will be completely different from performance of old pads.